|
Your window to your changing world! |
|
The Knit-Xtyle Fashion Review |
|
The Knit-xtyle Fashion Review | Editor's note⦠| Message to TKFR | SUBSCRIPTION |
|
All about jeans |
|
Rip them, sew on patches or cut off the waistband. Pair them with Manolos to be an urban princess or with cowboy boots to be a windshield rancher. Jeans transcend age, economic and style barriers. Washes, embellishments, leg openings and labels fluctuate with fashion whims, but jeans themselves have reached iconic status. Although they are the quintessential American item, denim originated from a fabric from Nimmes, France (serge de Nimmes means "of Nimmes" -- which became denim). In time American cowboys, railroad workers and farmers adopted them for their rugged wearability. After WWII, jeans evolved into rebel wear for teens and then for the hippies. The '70s saw an explosion of styles and fabric treatments; the '80s brought designer denim. Today, jeans are the stuff of high-end designer wear. Marc by Marc Jacobs, Jill Stuart, D & G (Dolce & Gabbana), Helmut Lang: these designers and many more don't think this sturdy fabric is too humble for the catwalk. What's hot Low-rise - Anywhere from an inch or so below the belly button to really low (like about six inches from the crotch to the waistband!) Great way to show off pierced navel. Ankle interest - Vents (slits at the ankle), zippers (on peg legs for the '80s look), flares. Vintage look - Whiskers (worn, lighter marks radiating out from the crotch), worn patches on backside. light washes Some embellishment - Crystals, grommets, studs. The overly decorated denim that Tom Ford of Gucci initiated a few years back (feathers, braiding, tape, etc.) is pretty much over. Slim cut- Regardless of the leg or waistband, the look is overwhelmingly sleek and slim. Glossary Right hand twill - Using uniform yarns, this weave is considered more rugged. Left hand twill - The weave runs diagonally, resulting in a softer, loftier feel. Ring Spun Denim - The original denim fabric, which is known for its characteristic slubs. Open-End Denim - The most popular type of denim that results in a consistent yarn thickness. Dirty denim - Filler yarns are brown (instead of natural which is woven with the indigo) which gives the denim a "dirty" appearance Stonewashed - Most jeans today are stonewashed, but not in pumice stones like the original method. Now enzymes, sand, ceramic balls and other methods give jeans their worn look. Flares - Slim through the legs, flaring right above the ankle -- to about an 21+ inch opening. Bellbottoms - Start to flare at the knee, resulting in a 22+ inch leg opening. Peg legs - Extremely narrow leg opening (very '80s) Boot cut - Slim through the legs, with a slight flare at the ankle to accommodate a boot (about a 16-18 inch opening) In a perfect fashion world, the first pair of jeans tried on would fit like a glove. But in the real world, inseams are too short, waistbands pinch and button flys don't quite close. There are really two issues when it comes to finding the best pair of jeans for your figure: finding a pair that fits and finding a pair that flatters. Fit Okay, let's get one thing straight: just because you can zip up a pair of jeans, it doesn't mean that they fit. One reason it's so hard to find perfect jeans is because there are so many parts to the design that are required to fit, including the waist, thigh, length, inseam, backside. All it takes is one of these areas to fall short and the fit is a wash. Here are some tips: Look for a waist that buttons or snaps easily (laying down on the bed to do it doesn't count). For low-rise jeans, make sure they don't bind or you'll create a "roll" effect over the top. The crotch/back seam portion should fit comfortably without grabbing. Make sure the jeans are long enough to wear with whatever you have planned to go with them, including boots or heels. They should reach the top of your footwear in the front. Some manufacturers are even making angled hems to keep you from wearing out the back of the hem. Flatter : Big bottom - Avoid skin-tight styles and any extra embellishment on the back (like the new popular vintage treatments that make the butt area look worn). Choose pockets that are proportionally sized and spaced (too small and wide spaced will make your backside look even broader). Styles with a slight flare or ankle interest (vents, embellishment, etc.) will balance out your lush figure. Low-rise jeans can also flatter your bottom (Jennifer Lopez uses this trick often). Ample tummy - Never, ever buy pleats. Choose five-pocket styles or jeans with slash pockets on the diagonal. Look for stretch jeans (that aren't snug) for some give. Elastic waists may feel comfy, but the denim bunches below the elastic and adds unwanted inches. Heavy thighs -- Go for a style that skims (but doesn't hug) your leg. Flares and boot cuts are good because they elongate the leg and give some heft to the ankle area to even out proportions. The worst? Peg legs, stretch jeans that fit skin tight and baggy jeans with no shape. Tall & thin-- Try the new retro peg leg (very narrow ankle opening) or extra low-rise styles to show off your flat tummy and slim hips. Short legs -- Slim-fit styles with a slight flare make your legs look longer. Avoid cuffs and peg legs. |